The kirtle is a full length woollen dress worn over the shift. This one buttons down the right side from the armpit to the waist and is slit under the sleeves. This gives freedom of movement without tearing the fabric which has little elasticity and is also practical on a hot day. The kirtle has removable sleeves which button on at the shoulder.

The colours and fabrics worn by people were dictated by the sumptuary laws which were designed to protect domestic industries (mainly wool), maintain class distinctions and save the morals of the population from the depravity of excess. Of course the morals of the gentry were above reproach so they could wear just about whatever they liked. Fur, exotic cloths, jewelery, unfeasibly long sleeves, seriously pointy shoes and buttons made from precious stones were all out of bounds to the lower classes. A rich merchant had to be twice as wealthy as a lord if he was to dress like one.

This kirtle is mustard coloured which is a happy colour since yellow was traditionally worn when celebrating.